Light inside tent

Höga Kustenleden (6): Lappudden – Skuleskogens Nationalpark

Day six started with pancakes, grapes, sugar and lemon. We managed to find sugar cubes at the takeaway coffee station in ICA and ground those up with spoons. Then we fried up eggs and ate them with bread and butter. All washed down with strawberry juice. Luxury.

Pancakes on camping stove

Smoke coming out of pot

Egg frying in a pan

Having an unplanned rest day at Lappudden meant we needed to adjust our remaining days. We packed the tents, walked back to central Nordingrå and picked up ice creams. Then took a bus to Ullånger, changed and stopped in Docksta. Several sections between Lappudden and Skuleskogens Nationalpark were roads and chatting with other hikers at Docksta validated our decision to skip them to make up time.

View of lake through window

The next bus wasn’t for a while so we ate lunch at the Hillside Kitchen — part of a nature centre at Skuleberget mountain. A vegetarian Lindström for me, a nacho plate for Scott and a shared slice of chocolate cake with cream. We were really impressed with the food given it was essentially a roadside café. Based on the last couple of days, the consensus was our hike had morphed into a food tour.

Meat and potatoes with pickles
Vegetarian Lindström

The nature centre had an information point, toilets and a small giftshop selling trail patches (couldn’t leave without buying a couple).

Patches and stickers

Our National Park bus pulled up and we were pleasantly suprised to discover that it was a free shuttle service on a plush coach. It crept through very narrow roads and dropped us at Entré Syd.

Blue paint marker on tree

Once inside the National Park, we began the 6km hike to our camping spot at Tärnättholmarna. We took a break on a sandy beach where I found seaglass and a nice fragment of driftwood with a hole in one end.

Circular mark on rock

Glass, pebble and wood in hand

There were a few other stops along the way and we sussed out a possible cabin that ended up being too far away from the area we hoped to camp in. The second cabin on our shortlist (Tärnättsundet) was already taken but the views were amazing so we pitched our tent a few metres away. There were only two other tents and they were at the other end of the islet.

Tents pitched together

Sinister face on tree

Man gazing at sky

Boat anchored in the water
Tärnättholmarna

This beautiful islet was at the bottom of our camping area, only about 20 metres down a tiny path onto a sandy beach.

Sunset over water

As the evening started growing darker, one of our friends realised the tents were pitched under a dead tree — we hadn’t noticed beforehand because the tree was so tall and only the very top looked dead. She pointed out that “if it goes wrong, it’ll go very wrong”. As tempting as it was to cheat death (especially as we were tired), she was right and we decided to move both tents.

Light inside tent

We managed to carry the assembled tents a few metres away, without emptying them, and then it was bed time. I lay in the tent listening to the breeze and wondering if the tree would fall. Read part 7.

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