Antlers nailed to roof

Höga Kustenleden (2): Halsviken – Hörsångs

Halskiven gave us a sunny morning!!! We made coconut porridge and cups of tea for breakfast, and sat eating around the fire pit. The wet items we hung in the shelter overnight were dry; setting off with dry gear was a good feeling.

Cups of tea
Morning brew

Antlers nailed to roof

Our camp area had a composting toilet in a wooden hut, so I didn’t need the trowel in my bag (digging a cathole is good trail etiquette). I was thankful I didn’t have to dig a hole that morning! Unfortunately, the toilet was almost full and I was greeted with a tangle of toilet paper and excrement staring back up at me. I ended up going with the door open to let some fresh air in.

Filtering water
Filtering water

It took a while to pack up our gear and prepare water for the day. We used Sawyer Mini filters to purify the water from a nearby stream.

Woman wearing hiking gear
Ready to roll

Boulder field

Most of the morning trails took us through coastal cobble fields. Lots of lichen, white pebbles, sun bleached branches, heather, wild blueberries and lingonberries.

Wooden sign
Norrvarp Vindskydd (Rödhällmalen)

Wooden wind shelter

Tube of reindeer paste
Reindeer cheese paste

We rested for lunch at Norrvarp Vindskydd (a wooden wind shelter) and explored the beach. Me and Scott shared a pearl barley meal and some blueberries picked from the forest. I also tried some reindeer cheese paste that tasted like a smokey cheese. Not the sort of thing I usually go for, especially as I’m a vegetarian, but it was delicious.

Cup of blueberries
Vilda blåbär
Pebble beach
Rödhällmalen

Patterned pebbles

The afternoon was filled with forest trails and then a few roads as we got closer to Hörsångs Camping & Havsbad. I’m not usually a fan of formal campsites but this one was beautiful! We (as a Sweden fanclub) all agreed Sweden does campsites far better than the UK.

Painted kitchen sign
Hörsångs Camping
Pink geraniums
Pelargoner på Hörsångs

Hörsångs had Falu red cabins dotted around a grass campsite, wild flowers, a small wooden bridge over a stream, pelargoniums in planters, washing facilities, a camper van area and a tent area overlooking the beach. It was pretty quiet at this time of year too. I forgot to take a photo of the campsite though 🙁

Wooden house near water

People in the sea
Hörsångs Havsbad

The four of us paddled in the sea but only one of us managed an actual swim. It was freezing!! Us ladies saved weight and bag space by leaving our bikinis at home and just swimming in our underwear.

Woman in the sea
Hörsångs Havsbad
Ripple pattern
Hörsångs Havsbad

I took a hot shower afterwards and didn’t realise how much I smelt of wood smoke from the night before, until then. Top tip… don’t make the mistake of holding a couple of soap leaves between your lips while you wrestle with a clingy shower curtain. You can imagine how well that went.

Colourful sky over water

We ate dehydrated meals for dinner, then me and Scott sat on a bench overlooking the water. Burning a citronella candle inbetween us helped repel the many mosquitos out for blood. A few people took a late swim and called out to hear their voices echoing around the shore. We zipped ourselves inside the tent and went to sleep listening to the sea. Read part 3.

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