Places
I considered gently easing you into my Seoul trip. Then I changed my mind and decided to give you my first experience of the city... Gwangjang Market (광장시장). A traditional street market in Jongno-gu, crammed full of food vendors. I'd been awake for almost 30 hours by the
Places
February was a month of bright but cold sun, late piles of Christmas trees on pavements, the return of outdoor fika, thick ice, long shadows, people on sledges, birds chirping for the first time in weeks, pastel sunsets, and faces peeping out of hoods and jackets once again. Cold shadows
Places
January was a month of julstjärna disappearing from windows, big coats, blue light in the mornings, people ice skating, sun breaking over the horizon, Semla in bakery windows and an ongoing wave of violence across the city. Varje °C räknas ads started appearing around the city — it means every °C
Hiking
Our first hike of the year coincided with fresh snowfall. Thick cloud cast an eerie blue-grey light and the air was bitterly cold. I don't mind going out in the cold though, it makes me feel alive and refreshed. The snow clung to every single branch and plant.
Places
We went rogue for Christmas this year and booked a mini break on Gotland. It was quite a last minute decision but we fancied getting away for a few days after being cooped up at home with Covid for so long. Plus it's somewhere we always come away
Places
Having travelled to Gotland the day before, we set off on a coastal walk with a bag of snacks and our Trangia stove. The temperature was -7°C without windchill so we layered up well. You may be wondering why we didn't just hunker down indoors away from
Places
December was a month of pig shaped sweet treats, ice, coats like sleeping bags, the smell of wood smoke, amaryllis and people carrying large Christmas trees. Darkness was one of the most notable traits; the days seemed even darker than the same month last year. The Gävlebocken survived December!! Not
Places
November was a month of candles in cemeteries (alla helgons dag), fading sun, hyacinth bulbs, Christmas chocolate in the supermarket, leafy clementines, cosy windows, saffron, paper julstjärna and the first snow of the year! Bakers started getting liberal with the saffron. Lussebullar, saffransbullar, saffranskakor, solbullar and saffron donuts, to name
Places
The first snow arrived in Stockholm a couple of weeks ago and WE HIT THE WINTER JACKPOT. An incredible amount fell in just a few days due to snow cannons. Jag var så glad! Our walk into town on Saturday morning was bitterly cold — the wind literally took my breath
Places
October was a beautiful month. A wave of sleepiness crept in as the trees changed colour and the days grew steadily darker. Ornamental cabbages made a comeback, the sun hung low, leaves covered pavements, cinnamon buns were piled high on 4th October, people started wearing scarves and dogs were back
Places
September was a month of grey days, raincoats and waterproof boots, pots of heather for sale, black clothing, loppis in most courtyards and a return towards general cosiness. We went to a 2km loppis in Liljeholmen — it was as overwhelming as it sounds. Both sides of the street were lined
Hiking
Our last morning on the trails. Rain hammering against the tent woke us at 5:45am but we managed to get back to sleep. My bladder woke me again at 7:30 and despite trying to ignore it, I couldn't. I reluctantly clambered out of the tent and
© Copyright Gemma Evans 2025. Images cannot be used without permission.